Sunday morning, for the last time, I swept the faux parquet floors of the apartment we’ve lived in for the last five years:

Our apartment was on the 7th floor — the one where the building has a bit of a setback on both sides, creating terraces. Our terrace was the one to the right. Our apartment is represented by the seven windows on that side of the building, the west side. Our windows face north, overlooking Fulton Street, the South Street Seaport, and the Brooklyn Bridge. I love that view, especially under the first lacy blanket of snow each winter.
This 1969 pop art office tower, converted to residential apartments sometime in the 1990s, was the cutaway image used on The Cosby Show when Claire Huxtable went to work at her law offices. For our entire time in New York it’s been home.
Cleaning up after five years of family life, the moving van having taken all our possessions away earlier in the week — the show over, so to speak — I felt a little like the cartoon version of Carol Burnett with her mop, cleaning up as the credits scroll up the TV screen.
Piles of cat hair, dust bunnies, pennies, stray checkers and chessmen gathered into heaps, debris that had accumulated for half a decade behind bookcases and under kids’ beds. Outside in the cool November air I scraped the fall leaves and windblown garbage out of the corners of the terrace, stuffed the clippings from our old plants into Hefty garbage bags. I pulled the Christmas lights off the railing, removed the remaining flower pot holders, folded up shop.
Here are a few of the things I thought about, breaking that terrace down:
- The goodbye party we threw for Rachel and Missy when they moved to Chicago — one of two enormous parties we threw that summer, never to be matched in terms of the numbers of people packed out there, Kool and the Gang’s “Rated X” blaring from the stereo to announce the arrival of summer.
- Farrell curled up out on the deck in a sleeping bag the morning after some party or another, one that had involved a 5 a.m. ride on the Staten Island Ferry at the end of the night to watch the sun come up.
- An animated conversation with Lane that climaxed in him accidentally kicking a flipflop over the edge of the building and the two of us running down to retrieve it, hoping it hadn’t landed on a pedestrian.
- Innumerable surprising objects falling on us from the high-rise apartments above us, everything from Hustler paper airplanes to underwear to hundreds of cigarette butts. (Today I found a bikini top that had fallen in a corner years ago. Covered with dirt and leaves and moss, it had partially decomposed.)
- Stella and Lisa dancing to Roxy Music.
- Trixie’s first time meeting the extended friendship circle, which included Pandora down from Boston for the weekend.
- Easter dinner last year with Jason and Nicole and other new friends from the neighborhood.
- Listening to The Microphones’ The Glow, Part 2 for the first time. Jeremy had brought it from L.A. and paired it with a lovely bottle of single malt scotch.
- Any number of friends lounging contentedly in the hammock, staring up at the rest of the building that unfolded above you like a magic road, disappearing into the distance. Sometimes it looked like you could walk right up it.
Saturday night (before dinner, which was followed by a delightful little evening watching Johnny Marr play guitar for Modest Mouse at Bowery Ballroom) we gathered on the terrace with those friends who happened to be around for toasts to the end of an era. Among other things, we toasted to terrace stories that could and couldn’t be repeated in public. In that spirit I acknowledge here the sort of stories I can’t write about, along with those that would simply take up too much space. Thank you, friends, for many good times on that terrace.
When we found out a couple months ago that we might have the opportunity to move to an apartment in SoHo — one better suited to our growing daughters and one that involved an exciting innovation in the University’s program for residential education — we jumped at the chance. As the weeks passed and the move came closer and closer to realization, we grew increasingly conscious of what we’d be giving up.
Our view of the Bridge, for starters:

One of our neighbors took this photo from his terrace at midnight; at one o’clock in the morning they kill the lights on the cables and you only see the illuminated walkway. Every room in our apartment had views of the Bridge, as did the terrace. The towers came to feel like sentinels, like friends. Our daughters watched them at night as they fell asleep, counting cars.
We’ll miss that damn outside space, to be sure. I remember at some party an acquaintance of ours stepping out onto it for the first time. She inhaled a gallon of air through her nose, exhaled through her mouth, then said, “I love the great outdoors.” Sitting on the terrace in the dull white noise hum of other buildings’ ventilation systems, you did get the sense that you were at the bottom of an urban canyon.
We’ll miss the proximity to the seaport as well, though we’re reassured by the fact that the new apartment is only a 20-minute walk from Fresh Salt. Our neighborhood friends, our sails on the Pioneer, my relationship with the Seaport Museum’s staff, the walking tours I love to lead for students and family members — these things will remain a significant part of our lives. I’m not sure we’d have been able to move, otherwise.
Five years is as long as we’ve stayed in any one apartment. We lived for five years in our dingy semi-basement apartment in Cambridge, redeemed only by the side yard and garden to which we had exclusive access and by the short walk we enjoyed to Harvard Square.
Five years on Water Street saw us integrate more fully into a neighborhood than we did in Cambridge; it gave our kids a sense of community at a fabulous public school in Tribeca; it allowed us to retain a sense of the natural history of Manhattan — a knowledge that we lived on an island; it gave us front-row seats for the last days of the Fulton Fish Market and any number of nights when we’d stumble down to Melville’s birthplace with other pilgrims before we made our way back to bed. It gave us all a firm sense of ourselves as downtowners and East Siders: identities we’re happy to take with us.
Cleaning up the corners of our first five years in New York gave me occasion (as Slade did here a few weeks ago) to think about home — to recognize the delicious accidents and opportunities and hard, hard work that go into our continual efforts at self-fashioning. I don’t regret not living in an ancestral center, a homeland. I love being part of the ongoing story of migration, transformation, and renewal that’s gone on in lower Manhattan for the last four hundred years or more. I particularly enjoy the ways in which home for us has less to do with owning private property than with having the good fortune to occupy space we’re able to open to our friends (though if a couple million bucks dropped on our front door I wouldn’t turn down the chance to own New York real estate).
And so we welcome our move uptown, grateful that “uptown” for us is still downtown. We welcome an expansion of neighborhoods: our new digs stand at the intersection of SoHo, Chinatown, Little Italy, and Nolita. (Everyone, lurkers included, please feel free to use the comments section to give us tips on where to eat, shop, and do other fun things in our new location.) We’re within walking distance of our old seaport haunts as well as the East Village and Lower East Side. I can walk to work in 15 minutes. Both kids can walk to school.
We welcome new views, like the one from the windows of our new bedroom, which overlook a building that will help us maintain our fantasy of living inside a postcard:

It’s a great building, don’t you think? It was Police Headquarters beginning in the late nineteenth century; since the mid 1980s it’s been divvied up into condos. Apparently Moby lives there, but I’ve also heard that Calvin Klein owns about half its square footage.
From the street it looks like this:

In bed in the morning, looking out at that dome, you feel like you’re waking up in some European capital. It’s an unusual building for New York. But at night, looking southward, we’re comforted by some of the same architecture we could see from our old bedroom, including the Borough’s municipal building. We can even see our Bridge twinkling in the distance.
When our friends Mark and Pandora moved from Boston to Chicago some years ago, their older son, Alex, introduced himself to his new 8th grade classmates with an essay he called “200 Water Street, Downtown.” We were honored, of course, that he used our address as a metonym for the specific type of adult community he aimed to celebrate. Here’s how his essay finishes, with a description of our parties:
Then when the friends start arriving and I smell alcohol I know it is time for me to take turns spending time with the kids and with the adults. I peek my head out and they are either crowded around in a group conversation or they are separately conversing in the tiny living room. I grab a chip and salsa or maybe some other little appetizer Stephanie has prepared. By this time, I have found someone to talk to. It always starts out with “how’s school?” Then the conversation escalates into more and more as we sit there talking. I feel so adult, I hear the words and I feel the words. I am so interested. Sometimes I go into the kids’ room and maybe I emerge instantly to put on a play with them, maybe I come out myself, maybe I stay there for a bit wanting to be a kid again before I go back out and become an adult. The night wanes and people leave. I always find myself curled up in the sofa while my mom and dad are still in a discussion with Bryan and Stephanie and whoever is left. Once in a while I put in a little comment here and there. Eventually I go off to sleep I am disappointed the savored moments are over, and tomorrow I have to leave right after one of Stephanie’s delicious German pancakes. I had a taste of two worlds that I’m right in the middle of, at 200 Water Street.
It’s a quintessential downtown moment; he captures perfectly, to my mind, the kind of community we’ve worked so hard for so many years to create — a place where intelligent kids can engage in conversation with reasonably interesting adults, where those adults can push each others’ boundaries and still emerge friends, and where an endless supply of German pancakes always hovers around the corner. We’ll take that with us too, I hope.
I wouldn’t trade them for all the boiled eggs at Balthazar.







Congratulations on your move, and welcome to your new home! Having recently moved myself, I completely understand your wistfulness. There’s something about packing up everything you own and watching it get carted away (whether up the street or across state lines) that forces you to take stock of your whole existence. Every dust bunny (or bikini top, as the case may be) prompts a memory cascade of Proustian proportions.
[hoisting imaginary drink]
Here’s to the terrace. Here’s to the years of magnificent evenings. Here’s to your future!
Bryan,
I’ve been thinking about you guys moving all weekend (sorry I was away and couldn’t help). I realized that a significant amount of my NY experience has been influenced by the happenings at 200 Water and shared with your family. Your sense of place in that building and in downtown Manhattan has, in a certain way, given me a sense of place, too (living around the corner to such generous and social friends is an exceptional way to integrate into the city). Thank you for that.
Your list of memories started me thinking about all of the parties on the deck and the lazy Saturday mornings sipping coffee at your breakfast table. Thanksgiving dinners and New Year’s Eves.
It would be difficult for me transition from thinking of you all at Water st to Broome st if not for the Thanksgiving holiday we will be sharing this week. Once again, I’m borrowing your sense of place to feel some on my own: using your oven to roast a turkey; using your kitchen to make the stuffing. Sitting at your table for that first toast to Broome st. I can’t wait!
Congratulations!
Hey Bryan,
This makes me mourn never having seen your Water St. apartment and that deck.
And how long until Alex is posting on the GW? That kid can write!
Aw, I love that terrace! I, too, have such fond memories of that evening, drinking scotch and listening to music. That’s the weekend I met you and Steph for the first time, when Farrell and I drove up from Philly… Ahh, well, here’s to the many future memories soon to be shared at the new place. I can’t wait to see it… Alas, it’s too bad you can’t get Fresh Salt to pick up and move as well.
No need to lament Fresh Salt’s location: I’ve already walked that walk many a time and it’s only 20 minutes. Faster by bike. That bar belongs where it is and I don’t have any plans to look for another place to be a regular. Hell, WW commutes there from the upper West Side when she’s in town — I can make a quick little jaunt.
Was that really the first time we met? No wonder you were working so hard to charm us.
Tim — yes, it’s really inexcusable that we saw you in New York on more than one occasion, including meeting up for a sail, and yet we somehow didn’t have you to the house. Shame on us.
Rachel — we can’t wait for you to visit.
MF: Hooray for T-day a-coming. We’re mostly unpacked (it’s been a marathon wkend) and your groceries arrived this morning.
Hey — where’s all that free SoHo advice I was looking for. Everyone we talk to has some favorite little secret about one of the nearby neighborhoods they want to share. I’d assumed my TGW friends would as well …
oh — one more — Tim, re: Alex. If I’m not mistaken he’s commented on TGW under a pseudonym. He’s about 16 by now, if I have my ages right, and he’s always been a fantastic writer. If you go back to my post about camping, that’s him covering my back in one of the photos.
Dave, he’s home.
OK, you had me at the faux parquet floors, but then it just got better and better. What a wonderful essay about a place more than a place–a town hall, a club house, a refuge, the coolest hot spot in town. I remember the first time I ever saw your apartment on Water St, I loved the front room, the bar between the kitchen, the windows in your bedroom, but when I saw the bridge, “my bridge,” from your balcony, I knew I was home, my NY home. I have spent many a night on the old futon, many a morning at the table, many a intense conversation on the balcony, and I have mourned the loss of these moments daily for three years, exiled from the city. As much as I have loved the space, it was always about the people, and the knowledge that there is a new space for my people is abstractly comforting, although I suppose it will finally hit for real when I come “home” again.
Alex and Walker ask to go back all the time and despite my ultra-convincing rants about the virtures of midwestern universities, may yet turn up at the beloved doorstep some day. Alex is 16 and a newspaper editor at the high school. He wishes you were closer, Bryan, he wants desperately to see “The Departed,” and I am shy of headwounds.
Bryan,
I got so wistful reading this. What treasured memories I have of the gatherings at your house. I will miss it so much. The only consolation is how exciting your new place is. I love the view already. And I can’t wait to go exploring your new neighborhood. This NY times article from a couple weeks ago about shopping for men’s clothes referenced your Nolita and East Village. I look forward to visiting some of them with you. Can’t wait to christen your new place on thanksgiving. Congratulations, to you and steph!
Every time I’d come home from visiting NYC people would ask what sites I had visited, where I had gone. I always told them I hadn’t gone anywhere, just hung out on the terrace drinking and eating good food. That was always enough for me.
This post makes me envious on multiple levels: your history on the terrace and all the parties we’ve missed; your life in Manhattan and your true sense of home there; and of course, your ability to convey it all so poignantly! Love the post, love your stories, and love the date in the future (already) at which we begin to build some memories of our own in Soho with you. And though I’m the least qualified person on the whole GW to be making New York recommendations, I must remind you that you are only a few anticipation-filled blocks from my favorite business in the whole city, Rice to Riches on Spring and Mott!!
we’ve already had to lay down the law on rice to riches: just because we walk past it doesn’t mean we get to go in every time. such things need to be paced. but that and the paul frank store are on the top of the list for certain family members.
last night at record club i ran into a friend i hadn’t seen for some time who’d told me once that as a kid her favorite building in all NYC was the one we were living in. last night she said she’s actually been doing a lot of research on the building and all its pop art accessories, many of which don’t survive. (it does still have some wacky sculpture, some colorful public seating, and a big clock that doesn’t work: click here for more pictures — it’s the student photo page where i found the picture i used above) among other things she told me that the lobby (which you reached by going through a neon-tubed tunnel) had a soft sculpture coke machine that giggled when you put your money in and that the floors of our terraces were originally painted to form enormous murals that could only be viewed from upper floors.
oh yeah, i’ll miss that big frank stella triptych across the street.
As a former resident of Broome Street (not the dormitory but another building 2 blocks away), I must dispense some food advice. Try to avoid LeMast Deli (adjacent to your building, I believe) at all costs, except for an occasional soda and a chat with one of the friendly clerks. Spring Street Natural has a great free-range chicken dish. Despite its close proximity to Lombardi’s, don’t forget about Pomodoro Pizza–especially the vodka sauce slice, it lives up to the semi-hype. Mexican Radio Grill has excellent frozen margaritas and some satisfying chicken quesadillas. Bar Marche (spring and elizabeth) has great french toast topped with fresh strawberries. The Water Lounge on Spring Street has some good, fresh sushi but it is a bit overpriced. I’d also reccomend hanging out at that playground on Spring street when the weather gets a bit nicer. It has this 80s, almost suburban feel which is oddly desirable during the first days of April when you might feel like pretending you’re a kid again. Anyway, enjoy the neighborhood and please continue posting as you explore the neighborhood, I always look forward to reading your blog.
hi, boots. thanks for the advice and for the readerly appreciation. that was exactly the kind of advice i was looking for!
In a panicky implosion of memory, I can’t remember the last time I was at your water street apartment…please help!
And the reason for that panicky feeling is that your water street home is clearly such a repository of memory and emotion for so many of us. I cannot remember dancing to roxy music, but i do remember lying on the hammock on the first thanksgiving there with bacon, parrish, and dave and laughing uncontrollably at the funniest thing I’d ever heard in the world…which alcohol caused me to forget within 10 seconds. And that was only the beginning of years of delicious memories involving all my favorite people and kids.
Your new home will soon fill up with new memories, but boy, this feels like some sort of wistful loss right now.
I’m with Stella. It’s sad to think we won’t be in that fabulous apartment anymore — but I’m so happy for the girls to have their own rooms! And you and Stephanie to have more space! Can’t wait to start with the new memories.
[...] Since our move to SoHo the ride to Tribeca has been trickier. The major arteries, Center and Lafayette, are either too heavily trafficked or running in the wrong direction. We tried Broadway a couple days — personally, I prefer zipping down Broadway to just about anywhere in New York when I’m biking alone — but one close brush with a city bus a week or so ago left us a little rattled. We’ve since worked out what we think will be our route. It involves more sidewalk riding than we’re used to, though; the bohemian-pastoral quality of our morning ritual has without question been marred by the move. [...]